From The Middle East

Day 5
Jordan River, Golan Heights, Capernaum (fish, lake Galilee, the town of Jesus, Peter’s house), Tabgha (place of five bread and the fish, church with mosaic peacock), mountain of the beatitudes)

We knew that we were going to be driving into the cold and Frans specifically told us to carry warm clothes. So we did take we had layered ourselves with warm clothes and set out on the drive. We drove along the beautiful mountains that were studded with rocks and flowing with sand. We also knew that were driving along the course of the Jordan River. It presented a splendid view as it looked like a forest river that flowed quite fast. Green in colour, it gushed through the slopes and was creating its own path. Seemed as if it was a law unto itself. We decided to stop by it and take a closer look. We went really close to it and were happy only to see it and not dare to touch it, as it was too swift in that area. We were sure we could get into it in some place.

On our way to the Golan Heights we also passed by the spots where the 2007 war against Lebanon had taken place. The places where the Lebanese rocket propelled grenades had destroyed the Israeli tanks. It was appalling to see that the border was so close and yet they were so divided as countries. If not for that fence it could have been one peaceful site. Families could be united and there was no need for war

The drive continued till reached the spectacular mountain view of the Golan Heights. Back in 2001, I was teaching a class on displacement and rehabilitation. The first unit was on geopolitics and my first case study was on the Strategic location of the Golan Heights. It is hard to describe the importance till you actually see. Let me try to describe it to you all.

It is a mountain from which you can see the snow clad mountain range of Mount Hermon, the place where the transfiguration is originally supposed to have taken place (not in mount Tabor as we have it written in the Bible). The Cliff of Golan oversees Damascus the capital of Syria that is only 60 km from there. On the other side there is a look out to Lebanon. Historically Golan heights belongs to Syria and is currently occupied by Israel. Since it is located on the mountain the military has a great advantage as they can just aim and shoot from there or just fire in any direction they want.

The installations of war were still present. The bunkers, some of the used artillery and board images of soldiers who would have been fighting from that place were all intact. Florina, constantly asks the question as of why they kept those boards of gun men. It is a bit scary and also realistic. May be it reminds you of the past for some at the same time it can also traumatize some.
The view from the Golan was breathtaking. We could see for miles without any disturbance. The wind was too strong even to let us stand.

We drove to our next destination Kefar Nahum (the town also spelled as Caparnaum or village of Nahum). I was very excited to see the boards of the place and started clicking away. We parked by a good restaurant and decided to have lunch. It was located right on the shores of the lake Galilee. Remember the place where Jesus walked on water, the place where he called out to Peter and the fishermen to follow them. This was it. We were on the same shores. The lake was calm, very pretty and huge. It almost looked like an ocean. We had the opportunity to step into the icy water and feel the place for our selves.
Since this was the place where Peter caught the fish that had the coin inside its stomach we decided to eat the same fish. Rightfully it was called Peter’s fish. I am not sure if it was the very same fish but I can tell you that it was tasty.
Just a kilometer from the lake of Galilee we went to a place called Caparnahum. This was the town of Jesus. The very board was too disturbing. I was walking in the place where he had walked. The archeological evidence says that there was a fishing village and it was most likely the house of Peter. Jesus stayed here while he started his ministry. He probably lived here for all the three years of active mission work.

The houses were small as the ruins indicate that there must have been a town here. With narrow streets and small houses it resembled a typical coastal village. The village was also strategically located between the areas governed by Herod and Phillip. So if he had problems with the Herod he could always move away to that of Phillip, which was more liberal.
There is Byzantine synagogue that was in ruins and the old olive press that was used to get out the oil. For a moment it appeared that time had frozen. For me this village created a lot of impression. It made me heavy. This was the place where he must have had a lot of discussions, planning, and most of all this could have well been the birth place of a new theology. Wow it was getting too much. I was able of constantly talk with Annemarie and Frans about my reflections share their thoughts in it.
The place was under the control of the Franciscans and they were doing a good job with it. But there was an ongoing custodian battle between them and the Greek orthodox church over more excavations. What was more surprising was that many parts of the place were excavated only about 50 years ago and there are several sites that remain unexcavated because of the conflict. I hope some sense prevails over these conflicts and people are willing to move ahead in time.

Our next stop was Tabgha. Remember the incident in the bible where Jesus went on preaching and people had to remind him saying that the crowd was hungry and there he found someone with fish and bread and the rest is known to all. Yes this was the place. The bed rock still remains and a beautiful church has been built over it. The church was apparently destroyed and by the Turkish invasions. Later excavations found that there was a beautiful byzantine church with some extraordinary mosaic work. The flooring had basket with four bread and two fish on the side. Birds and animals found in the region decorated the floors. It was quite extraordinary to find peacocks on the floor. Flo took a picture of it reminding us of our home.
From below sea level we also had a quick look at the mount of the Sermon. Also known as the Mount of Beatitudes. Frans clearly explained to us the likelihood and authenticity of this mountain being the one for the preaching. Located only a few kilometeres it has a natural place for people to sit and listen. So when a lecture was given from a lower level it all could hear. As we drove past it the beatitudes rang in my ears.
My head was getting heavier and it could have exploded if we had not stopped for the day.